It was a local bus, it stopped everywhere. As we inched our way toward Algeria and into the Sahara, the military presence increased in every town. Finally, a taxi dropped us off in the middle of the desert, a ghost town. We were fifty kilometers from the border. In a small garden courtyard, over a […]
For this particular climb you go under the phone cables on the way up, but you lower down over the cables for clean rope management. Meanwhile the busses and tourists line up behind you for some blatant showmanship. Gratuitous as that is, most of the Todra Gorge’s crags are further upstream and much more peaceful, […]
Kester forgot to mention two important things. One, Taghazoute is drier than Zion. And two, the surf doesn’t really kick in until November. Our apartment is excellent; a kitchen, a cat, and a balcony that, if you fell off at high tide, would land you in the ocean. We found a liquor store in the […]
The most noticeable difference in the souk this morning were the piles of severed goat heads, billies on one side, nannies on the other. In separate piles feet were bound together for…ah, soup? Muddy, bubbly red puddles in the street which even the dogs let alone. The meat will go toward a great feast at […]
From the twisted branches of the Argan tree hang a fruit irresistible to the industrious goat, whose gastronomic engine delights in the hard outer fruit before the terminal end deposits the inner pit to sun dry in the scorched fields. Later collected, these pits are pressed for their oils, delicious in their own right, or […]