The Elephant Cloud

Sunrise on the the River Ganges, a romantic wooden boat ride with bamboo oars awaits at the dockless Ghats, 325 now vacant palaces built by kings with narrows stairs descending to the river. Never mind the occasional dead body or cow floating by, as this is the pilgrimage taken by most Hindus. Ceremonial crematoriums line the river, sending smoke signals to the destroyer god Shiva. After a river washing the blazing wood catches the golden wrapped body, 4 hours later the remains are set afloat.
Children under 5, death by snake bites or small pocks, eunuchs and priests I have learned are not allowed to burn.
Rowing down river, the Ghats are filled with morning rituals of bathing, washing, singing, yogi and fishing. Swimmers maneuver around bodies, boat paddles and floating offerings of banana leaf candles wreathed in marigolds.
It is said for clarity, one should dunk in these waters, but I am unable to persuade myself.

A childs hands arranged a small banana leaf bowl adorned with bright orange flowers and a centerpiece tea light candle. We were adrift in a small wooden boat on the Ganges River.

Her tiny voice instructed me as we lit the wick, then I sat in quiet reflection for a moment, thinking of loved ones gone, most specifically, my mother.

As the sun set, I lower the craft into the water and sent the light afloat on India’s holiest river.

What kind of holy animal lies in it’s own shit? Rats wont even do that.

I boated down the Ganges River at sunrise this morning, past the blazing riverside crematorium fires and alongside several dead, bobbing bodies wrapped in burial cloths. After lunch I walked back up the river along the ghats. A lot of stuff happened in between, but as I walked, I watched dead, naked cows float by. Cows are sacred and when they die, they are dignified with a toss into the Ganges. As I stood watching them drift by, I couldn’t help but wonder if the carrion birds riding the bobbing steak are worthy of such a holy meal.

Yesterday, I was attacked by a cow. Karma? I think it was just a warning, because one firmly placed hand on it’s head redirected it’s aggression.

In the days before cars and rickshaws, the vehicles of the Gods were animals. Shiva used cows, or perhaps bulls. Regardless, thats why cows are sacred and it’s illegal to kill them (though I see them getting whacked with sticks a lot).

Hinduism has three primary gods, as part of the trimurti: a creator, a sustainer, and a destroyer.

Shiva is the god of Varanasi and the Ganges. He’s the destroyer. If you don’t believe me, ask his son, Ganesh. Shiva chopped his head off in a case of mistaken identity and barely saved his life by replacing it with one from a baby elephant. Ganesh is a favorite of the people because he eats lots of sweets, is a bit rotund, and quite jovial. If you had an elephant head, you’d have to have a good sense of humor.

It’s all rather complicated, but I visited a number of temples today and i think I’m finally getting the hang of it.

I really quite fancy Ganesh, actually.